history

Hogs to H.O.Gs- The French Broad River Road

Long before interstates or train track connected the 63 miles between Asheville and Newport, the challenge for a farmer was to get his products to a large city market to sell. The fertile valleys of the French Broad River and Cocke County produced abundant foodstuff that was in demand for people as far south as Charleston, SC.

In 1874, then Tennessee Bureau of Agriculture agent, Joseph Buckner Killebrew reported: “These are exceedingly fertile valleys, the soil equal to any in the State. It is alluvial and deep. With anything like fair cultivation, it will produce from fifty to one hundred bushels of corn to the acre.”

While corn can be used for milling or distilling, much of the corn grown in Cocke County was used to fatten hogs to sell in the markets of the South.  Hogs are voracious eaters and the corn yields in the river plains of Big Creek and the French Broad were prolific. In contrast, the plantation farmers in Georgia and South Carolina used their lands for cotton and rice to sell in large cities and globally.  With most of the land in use for cash crops, plantations owners needed to purchase pork to feed the large number of field hands working to plant, tend, and harvest their crops. The annual hog “drive” through Cocke County to Asheville would begin in early November along the dusty road running parallel to the French Broad River.  Once reaching Asheville, the farmers would then the sell the hogs directly to plantation farmers or to slaughterhouses.

A drover could move his herd of pigs about 10 miles a day, keeping his hogs moving with shouts “Soo-eey,” “Su-boy,” or “Ho-o-o-yuh.”  Along the route, there were inns that had pens and feed for hogs, and perhaps a bed for the drover. One of these inns, Wolf Creek Inn, stood where Wolf Creek enters the French Broad south of Del Rio.  The road became so well known for the hog drives, that Asheville has placed a statue of walking hogs in downtown to represent the heritage of this porcine economy.

By 1880 and the completion of the railroad between Newport and Asheville, the years of the road taken over by large hog drives became a distant memory.   Today the 25 E highway between Newport and Hot Springs, NC is known as the East Tennessee Crossing Byway, a national scenic byway.  It is a bit ironic that this road is very much favored by motorcycle clubs for group rides, some of which are riding Harley Davidson, known in slang as Hogs.  The legend is that a Harley Davidson racing team selected a hog as a mascot and the label has stuck ever since.

Sooey!

 

 

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Newport: A City History Shaped by Transportation

Nestled on the north side of the Great Smoky Mountains is the quiet city of Newport Tennessee. Bordered by rivers, a train track, and divided by a state and federal highway, the city can be easily overlooked. But a glance into its past reveals a historic era from the late 1700’s forward worth exploring.

Cocke County Tennessee embodies a rich history of the pioneers who settled the area. The first town, Old New Port was formed in 1799 when John Gilliland, the first settler of Cocke County, donated fifty acres of land to build the town two years after Cocke County was established. New Port was thus named because it was a new port on the French Broad River. Fines Ferry, the former crossing for the French Broad River, no longer exists, and while much has changed, a few pieces of history still remain. But this history may be told differently depending on who you speak to in the present Newport.

The O’Dell house, the oldest structure still standing, is residential and has been declared an historic site. The building dates back to 1813 and was built by Abel Gilleland, son of John Gilleland, who settled in the area in 1783. The house is the primary physical reminder of the once bustling town of Old New Port. It is a significant architectural example of the type of residence built by men of prominence in early East Tennessee and is still occupied by descendants of the original owners. Few of this type of structure can still be found in this area.

Local resident, Edward Walker was born, raised, and still lives in Newport. As the history of the area goes, Walker is as much an historian as any. A former school teacher, now retired, Walker is a fount of information.

“The railroad arrived at the tiny village of Clifton in 1867,” said Walker. “This is when the controversy to move the county seat really revved up.”

Walker says you had the Cliftonites on one side and those living in New Port on the other. Whoever had the majority on the county legislative body would vote to move the county seat back and forth between the two. This happened at least three times. Finally, in 1884 the Tennessee Supreme Court ruled that the county seat could be on the Pigeon River in what was the village of Clifton. The name followed and what once was Clifton became New Port. If that isn’t confusing enough, Clifton was also once known as Gorman’s Depot. But in 1884 all three converged to become the county seat with the name of Newport. The original courthouse in Newport did not survive a fire so many of the original records and photographs are lost.

By August of 1869 the railroad had extended as far east as Wolf Creek. A stagecoach was required at this point if you wanted to go to Hot Springs or Asheville. There was no crossing by railroad until 1882. The earliest existing Newport on the Pigeon map only dates back to 1887.

A discerning eye, with help from a local historian, can spot a few original buildings. The railroad tracks still run through town but are now used for freight only. The original main building of Newport Grammar School is the oldest, continually used, elementary school building in the state of Tennessee.

Walker says the town hit a boom in the 1950’s and 1960’s. Capitalists once looked to come to small towns when starting an industry. “Everyone had big ideas and talked big but wanted to build their business on the backs of the locals. The businesses would succeed but often moved elsewhere after a time.”

Following the route of state road 25E, the East Tennessee Crossing Byway is an 83-mile national scenic byway that links Cumberland Gap and to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The drive follows the old river road pathway to Asheville and Hot Springs, and runs directly through the town of Newport.

The design plan and completion of Interstate 40 cut a path through Cocke County and Newport. As with most highway system builds, downtowns lost their sense of purpose and direction when industry, and then commerce fled to the areas along highways. Newport was no different.

But Walker says the town is making a comeback. “Downtown Newport looks better now than it has for some time,” said Walker. “We have new businesses coming to town.”

Following the lead of many larger cities, Newport is finding its way back to purpose with the renaissance of new businesses.  Newport makes for a great stopover for a cup of coffee, an ice cream treat, or a short walk around downtown to view the remaining historic buildings before trekking on to the Great Smoky Mountains.

 

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Wilma Dykeman- A Legacy of Conservation

Newport’s and Cocke County’s history is woven together with the stories of Appalachian life, mountains, rivers, and the people who lived here.

If you don’t know this name- Wilma Dykeman- you should.   Author, conservationist, activist, and historian, Ms. Dykeman’s legacy in Cocke County touches the very water we drink, fish, and play in, while her writing have captured the imagination of so many who come to visit the Smokies.

She chronicled the French Broad as a river, a watershed, and a way of life where yesterday and tomorrow meet in odd and fascinating harmony. And how was she to know, that her assertion that environmental sensitivity can encourage broad-based economic development without risking the balance between nature and commerce.

Her romance with Appalachia’s beauty and with her future husband led her to the ribbon cutting dedication of the Great Smoky Mountain National Park on Oct 2, 1940.  A month later, she would marry and eventually move to her husband’s family home in Newport, TN along the bluffs of the Pigeon River.   Her life’s work is marked by her legacy.

Read more about the work of this incredible woman here.

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Day trippin’ in Cocke County TN- Parrotsville

Cocke County is filled with historic sites to see such as the Swaggerty Fort in Parrottsville.

Tucked in the northeast corner of Cocke County, the average traveler would not necessarily find Parrottsville, unless they were driving from Newport to Greensville. Along the way, a traveler would discover that Parrottsville is one of the oldest towns in Tennessee dating back to 1780, a decade before Tennessee became a state and just a few years post American Revolution.

The original settlers of Parrottsville came from Germany.  Two properties are listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Yett Ellison House (1857) on Main St and the Swaggerty Block House  just north of the downtown on 321 along Clear Creek.

A controversy regarding the  date of the structure and purpose was debated until 2009.  Blockhouses were fortifications built on edges of the western frontier to protect settlers and to protect Indian lands.  The name Swaggerty dates back to an early settler- James Swaggerty, around the time of 1787.  Conflict between the settlers and Native Americans were heightened due the Indigenous People’s alliance with the British during the Revolutionary War, and with the repeated breaking of land treaties by settler expansion onto tribal lands.

While the Swaggerty blockhouse has features of a frontier blockhouse, research conducted by graduate student,  D Mann, University of TN in 2009* proved that the building was likely built in 1860 by land owner and farmer, Jacob Stephens.

*https://trace.tennessee.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=7592&context=utk_gradthes

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Celebrating Cosby- 2024 Summer Programming Announced

Each summer, the Great Smoky Mountain  National Park Service teams up with Cocke County Tourism to host the “Celebrating Cosby”   community programming which honors the rich cultural and natural history of the Cosby area through storytelling, dance, music, and history walks.

“These programs offer incredible opportunities for visitors to discover Cosby by experiencing it firsthand with the people who live and work here,” said Chief of Resource Education Stephanie Kyriazis. “We are grateful to our friends from the local community who are leading these unique experiences.”

Plan your visit to the Smokies to include these fun, free events held in the Cosby Campgrounds.

June 21, 7 p.m.- 8 p.m.    Mountain Edge Band

Enjoy traditional bluegrass music and stories of Cosby families during this musical night! Featuring musicians Judge Carter Moore (guitar and vocals), Andy Williams (mandolin and vocals), Kurry Cody (banjo and vocals), and Carty McSween (bass).

June 28, 7 p.m.- 8 p.m.    Cherokee Storytelling and Dance

Learn about the Cherokee culture and stories through dance, music, and storytelling featuring members of the Eastern Band of Cherokee People, including Daniel Tramper, Dustin Tramper, and Sonny Ledford.

July 5, 7 p.m.- 8 p.m.      Honoring Those Who Served

Honoring those who served and a presentation of Quilts of Valor. Join park staff to learn about community members’ roles in the military and public service, yesterday and today!

July 12, 7 p.m.- 8 p.m.     People of the Mountains

Take a step back in time and learn from the locals about what daily life was like working and living in the Cosby community and Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Learn directly from the families connected to the land.

July 19, 7 p.m.- 8 p.m.     Moonshiners

White lightning, mountain dew, moonshine! Distill myth from fact as you learn details of making moonshine in the mountains from Moonshine Legends Mark Ramsey, Sally Clark, Digger Manes, and Kelly Williamson.

 

 

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The Legend of the Moon Pie- A Campfire Story

Summer’s sticky sweetness is often celebrated around a blazing campfire with the delicious making of  the confection called ‘smores and the storytelling of tall tales and folk legends.

Here on the Adventure Side of the Smokies, the legend of the Moon Pie is a story worth telling.

Marshmallows and graham crackers are the stuff legends are made of. Near one of the entrances to the sprawling Union Cemetery in Newport, you’ll find the grave of Earl Mitchell, a salesman for the Chattanooga Bakery and the force behind the Moon Pie.  Mitchell was born in nearby Greene County and his travel route brought him to towns in East Tennessee and Kentucky.

According to the company website, Mitchell got the idea for the Moon Pie  after a conversation with a Kentucky Coal miner in 1917.  The miner wanted a snack “as big as the moon” and Mitchell delivered with a snack that would fit in a lunch pail.   A small marker at the foot of Mitchell’s grave gives him credit for “inventing” the Moon Pie.  Quite often folks will leave a Moon Pie and an RC cola at the foot of his grave

Which gooey confection of graham crackers, marshmallow, and chocolate came first?  The Moon Pie was being sold by 1917, and has been continuously produced for over one hundred years.

Legend has it that roasting marshmallows began as early as 1890.  The first recipe for ‘smores appeared as a recipe in a Girl Scout handbook in 1927.

It seems that the irresistible  combination of chocolate, marshmallow, and graham crackers have continued to be a sweet treat for many generations.

Contributed by Clayton Hensley, #knoxroadtripper

 

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